The Jewish Quarter in the Old City is small and extremely clean. Half of the inhabitants are new immigrants from the US or other English speaking countries, and the other half are Israelis.
When I moved to Jerusalem for the first time (almost 12 years ago), I stayed at a free Jewish hostel called "Heritage House".
During summer 1996, we were a whole bunch of girls who didn't really know what to do. Throughout the day we were mostly busy with "Yeshiva shopping - looking for the right Yeshiva". To me, the Jewish Quarter always seems like an American ghetto. The Jewish Quarter is in Hebrew called ROVA. Americans pronounce it "The RRROOVA".
The American inhabitants of the Rova are stuck into their own little society. They hardly speak any Hebrew and many times don’t even leave the Old City. When you speak to them, it doesn't feel like being in Israel. "Wow, you speak Hebrew", this sentence I heard many times.
The Rova has its own life. Different Yeshivot like Aish HaTorah, Yeshivat HaKotel, Midreshet Lindenbaum , the Sephardi Study Center and others. Additionally, many anglo - artists found their home there.
One of the most famous institutions is probably the "Heritage House", a free hostel for Jews only. It consists of two separate buildings; one for women and one for men. Head of the hostel is Rabbi Me'ir Schuster and the goal of the hostel is to turn secular guests into something religious. The Heritage House has an age limit and, in most cases, you shouldn't be older than 32. As soon as you check in, you are being asked (missionized ?) if you would like to have a look at different Yeshivot and religious programs. Aish HaTorah and Ohr Sameach (for men) and Neve Yerushalaim (for women). Or at least the one - day Discovery Program at Aish HaTorah. You can say NO and that's it. Many youngsters do say YES and this way, the Heritage House is getting people interested. Some former secular might even turn out becoming Haredim after a while. Thus, the Heritage House has fulfilled its goal.
However, it is a good place to stay even if you are not interested in religion. But please note that the hostel has its own rules such as being closed during the day or a special Shabbat programm you can hardly escape. If you don't want restrictions in your life, you should consider staying at another hostel.
It sounds strange but different religious institutions are fighting about their clientele. The Heritage House works together with a guy called Jeff Seidel . Originally from Chicago, Jeff is running the Jewish Student Information Center right at the Square. If you need a place for Shabbat, speak to him or, at least, meet him at the water fountain in front of the Kotel (Western Wall) every Erev Shabbat. Usually an hour after candle lightening.
But also Chabad is very active in the Rova. The Tzemach Zedek Synagogue is right above the Cardo and if you need a place for Shabbat, ask for Rabbi David Sterne . For years, a quarrel between the litvishe Aish HaTorah Yeshiva and Rabbi Sterne (Chabad) has been going on. Years ago, Aish refused any kind of chassidic ideas but due to the great demand, they started chassidic classes. Without mentioning Chabad, of course. If they hadn't done so, their students would have run over to Rabbi Sterne' s place all the time.
Who is getting guests on Shabbat and who is getting the most students ?
In the Rova you have countless young Yeshiva students from abroad. Parents sent their kids so that they do something in their lives. Six months or a year at Aish. Why not ?
Personally think that it is a good idea, however, after some time, you should leave Aish and look for more intense Jewish studies. I know people from Aish who have been there for years, and still don't know Hebrew or anything about Israeli society. They still run after Rabbi Motti Berger although he gives the same lectures over and over. His "Free Will - lecture" is ancient. Aish people are many times considered not to have such a great intellect. Maybe they do but when you study at Aish, you don't really need to use it.
A little more demanding Jewish program is "Isralight" run by Rabbi David Aaron. With him I always have the feeling that he is really interested in selling his kabbalistic books. If you have a question, his answer might be: "Read my second book". In case you are female and so super spiritual, you shouldn't miss going to Susie (Sarah) Schneider's. She gives lectures on her own interpretations on the writings of the Arizal (Rabbi Yitzchak Luria) and rather looks like a leftover hippie. However, she is nice but too much for me.
If you walk around in the Rova on a Friday night, be aware of an elderly weirdo guy called Yaakov Fogelman who wants you to take his pamphlet on the Torah portion. He is one of the most hated characters in the Rova. Looking like a freak, Yaakov Fogelman hates anything haredi. It doesn't matter if you are Mea Shearim, Chabad or Aish; Yaakov Fogelman hates the guts out of you and doesn't keep away from spreading sarcastic remarks. The best answer you can give him is that you belong to the Neturei Karta or to Chabad. Then you quickly get rid of him.
The Jewish Quarter has, as I said, its own life, its own mentality and its own people. Either you like it or you hate it. If you stay there a little longer, you will definitely have many encounters with all the characters: Jeff Seidel, Rabbi David Sterne, the free will - Rabbi Motti Berger (Aish), the putting - you - to - sleep - Rabbi Shmuel Schwartz (Aish), the womanizer Buddy from the store next to the toilets and all the beggars who are just after your dollars. If you have a bad day you even might meet some Christian missionaries and the crazy Christian constantly blowing the Shofar like a madman. He wants J.C. now.
For people staying there longer:
At least try to remain sane !!!
The Jewish Quarter in the Old City of Jerusalem
In the Cardo - an ancient Roman shopping street
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