Givat Sha'ul / Jerusalem

B"H

The Givat Sha'ul neighbourhood is one of the city's haredi areas. All kinds of different Haredim live there. From Litvishe to Chassidim. 

Years ago, I used to have friends living in the main road Givat Sha'ul Street. People who were actually national religious. They never really fit into the neighbourhood nor into the apartment building where they lived for a couple of years. The family's children went to the national religious "Noam" school and not to any haredi "Talmud Torah" or "Beit Yaakov". 

When I once came to visit my friends, a haredi neighbourrefused to share the elevator with me and insisted on "No Yichud". I remember me being upset because I had to walk up the stairs, as the guy occuppied the elevator. 

Eventually my friends left Givat Sha'ul but not because of them not fitting. They left because they couldn't afford the high rent anymore, as the woman lost her job. In the end the moved to the national religious town of Beit El outside Jerusalem. 

Jerusalem with view onto Givat Sha'ul on the left.

Mossad Harav Kook: Library and lecture hall.

Right next to the Mossad HaRav Kook we find the Mikveh in a small building used by Chassidut Stropkov as Yeshiva.

The Stropkov Yeshiva. The group's main synagogue in Jerusalem is located in Mea Shearim Street.

Jerusalem with view onto the Central Bus Station.

Copyright / Photos: Miriam Woelke

Purim in Mea Shearim

View over Jerusalem from the roof of the Ruzhin - Boyan Synagogue

B"H

Whereas other places had already stopped celebrating Purim, Jerusalem is adding a second day called "Shushan Purim". Usually Mea Shearim has huge celebrations including chassidic Tishes with all the Rebbes. All places are open what many outsiders don't know. And my friend and I were lucky, as not too many Israeli tourists ran to the Tishes as on Sukkot. The streets were not divided and everyone was able to manage; men and women.

The Tishes started at sunset and our first stop were the Toldot Aharon where it was packed as usual. However, we were able to climb up one of the metal benches and get a glimpse at Rebbe David Kahn and his Chassidim. Usually the Rebbe is very serious and organized but last Shushan Purim was the first time I saw him looking a little different. His Peyes (side curls) were almost upside down and he looked as if he hadn't slept the whole night.

We already wanted to leave as a younger Toldot Aharon woman came up to me and said that she had noticed me many times at the Tishes. According to her words, she noticed everything going on and I told her that she can ask whatever she wants. No, she didn't want to ask anything but kept on saying that obviously I am curious about the group. In a positive way.
As she used the expression "curious" over and over, I told her that I am also writing on the Internet about chassidic groups. Who my readers would be, she asked.
Haredim, secular, Gentiles, whatever, I responded.
This was the end of our conversation and she just left.
The situation was just strange to me because when you come up to someone you ask questions but my friend claimed that we don't really fit into any category. We regularly come to the Tishes but are neither seminary girls nor anything haredi or whatever. Actually we don't belong to any group and don't intend to join one of them.

Whoever has an idea why the woman came up to ask is welcomed to write a comment !

Anyway, our next stop were the Toldot Avraham Yitzchak not too far away. The other Kahn brother, Rebbe Shmuel Yaakov, still looked pretty quiet and ate. His choir / band was a slightly out of tune but maybe it got better later on.


The Toldot Avraham Yitzchak







Next stop: The Neturei Karta.
The Neturei Karta has a beautiful Synagogue but there wasn't a real Purim celebration. Instead a few drunk guys were running up and down on a table.

The Neturei Karta Synagogue in Mea Shearim





Next stop: The Mishkenot HaRoim
The best band; swinging and really loud but full of joy.
Rebbe Chaim Rabinovitch was sitting in the middle and people could come up and talk to him.

The Mishkenot HaRoim with Rebbe Chaim Rabinovitch









Next stop: Stropkov
All women there were glued onto the Mechitzah (separation between men and women), and there was no way of pushing ourselves through. So we left and went to the Shomrei Emunim.
The Shomrei Emuni had a pleasant surprise, as they had set up a bigger screen on the Ezrat Nashim. Thus, the women were able to watch the Rebbe and his Chassidim closely. The screen was a great idea !

Next stop: Karlin - Stolin
A less pleasant surprise did we experience at Karlin - Stolin, as they had covered the tent where the Chassidim were celebrating outside with curtains. In order to see something, we and some other women went down and stood next to the tent. After a while a Chassid and a Karliner woman came up to us and told us to stand further away.
Further away behind the curtain.

Karlin - Stolin


We left, as we are not "behind a curtain fans" and went to Kretchnif. The Kretchnifer Synagogue was almost empty but we saw the Rebbe dancing which was very nice to see. I love to see him dancing, as he has a very special way of doing so.

Our last stop was Ruzhin - Boyan, and they were the best that night. Hundreds of Chassidim and women upstairs were there and as a special surprise they had a few Chassidim standing on the huge table in the middle, right in front of the Boyaner Rebbe. The Chassidim held up a Chuppah and it looked like a wedding celebration. I asked one of the Boyaner women what was going on and she told me that every time they are thinking about different ways of entertainment.
The dancing, the Rebbe, the Chuppah ceremony, everything was very nice to see and when we left, I was finished and could hardly move my legs anymore.


Modesty sign in the Mea Shearim Market. Customers should only enter the store when they wear modest clothes !
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The pictures were all taken by my friend !

A very chassidic Purim

B"H

Someone at the Purim party at Rabbi Mordechai Machlis said that these Purim celebrations have been her best Purim celebrations ever. First I thought this sounds exaggerated but in the end, I do agree with her, as I can make the same claim.

In the years before, I used to go to Chabad for the Megillah reading and this was basically it. Compared to the Chassidim in Mea Shearim, Chabad doesn't know how to celebrate. At least not at the Tzemach Zedek Synagogue in the Jewish Quarter.
This time, as mentioned before, I went with a friend to Mea Shearim for the first Megillah reading and we enjoyed it very much. I can only recommend the Great Breslov Synagogue in Mea Shearim Street. The people are nice and the Baal Koreh was incredible.

Yesterday, on Purim Shushan in Jerusalem, we first went to the party at Rabbi Mordechai Machlises house. It was so packed that we thought we wouldn't fit in anymore. But we did. The food was, as usual, great. Thanks to Rebbitzen Henny Machlis and the kitchen team (the Machlis daughters). The guests were drunk but still behaving well.

At about 7pm, I went with two friends of mine to Mea Shearim. One is mostly accompanying me anyway and the other one, has never been to a Tish but was so anxious to go.

I think that many people from outside the haredi world didn't know that there are huge celebrations taking place in Mea Shearim last night. Starting in the late afternoon and finishing at about 10pm. The Toldot Aharon already started at 5pm and Avraham Yitzchak did at 6pm.

Because no one seemed to know, we were the only visitors from outside. At least as far as I saw. No one else was there; no national religious, no Israeli tour group, no nothing. This was actually great for us.

Our first destination were the Toldot Aharon.
What can I say ? It was more than packed. As soon as we entered, we only saw women's legs in front of us. All the women had already occupied the metal benches and there was no way for us seeing anything. We ended up standing somewhere in the middle in front of a white metal gate. A metal gate between the metal benches.
One of the Toldot Aharon women was in charge of the gate and she let in only other female group members. Suddenly she turned to me and said that she knows me by sight: "You have been here many times before, right ?"
When I nodded she wanted to let me in. I told her that I am not alone but with two more friends. Actually I didn't need to stand right behind the Mechitzah, as I have seen it hundreds of times before. But maybe she could let in my friend who has never seen such a Tish before.

In the end, all the three of us were allowed to enter in order to stand behind the Mechitzah. The woman explained me that they closed of the best seats due to the presents of the Rebbitzen's family. First we were told that we can only stay for two minutes but then the woman just let us stay. However, after approx. five minutes I felt bad, as more and more women showed up and I didn't want to take away their space. We left and went to the Toldot Avraham Yitzchak.

I have no idea who this particular Toldot Aharon woman, who let us in, was. I thanked her but she didn't want to hear it. So, I am thanking her again this way. Thanks to her from my friends and me.

As Rebbe David Kahn from Toldot Aharon had taken a short break, we went to his brother Rebbe Shmuel Yaakov Kahn and the Avraham Yitzchak. There is was the same. Packed. However, we found some space to stand right behind Rebbitzen Channah. She wore a beautiful costume and couldn't stop swinging to the music of the Avraham Yitzchak band. Great music I have to say.

After half an hour or so, we left and walked through the Mea Shearim Market getting some fresh air. Our present heat wave in Israel makes chassidic Tishes sometimes very difficult. The Ezrot Nashim at Toldot Aharon and Avraham Yitzchak are always too hot and there is no air. At least, the Toldot Aharon have an air condition.

After a few minutes walk, we came to the Neturei Karta Synagogue "Torah veYirah". We heard great enthusiastic singing from inside and decided to have a look. However, the women's entrance only led us to a dining - room and my friends used the opportunity to look for the restroom. While I was waiting for them, a teenager boy showed up and I asked him for the women's entrance to the synagogue. He didn't speak to me but showed me the the door to the Ezrat Nashim.
A few minutes later, we walked into a staircase but couldn't find the right door. In fact, our second friend got lost and in the meantime, some men showed up. But we made everything on time and didn't bother anyone. Unfortunately, we didn't see the synagogue but hopefully next time.

The "Shomrei Emunim" had moved to a bigger hall in order to celebrate and their synagogue was empty. We didn't feel like looking for the other hall and kept on walking. The next destination were the "Mishkenot HaRoim", the secret Mea Shearim group. We were so lucky; many women were walking in and so did we. The Mishkenot HaRoim Synagogue is not too big but has a great Ezrat Nashim. Glass windows and we were able to see everything.

Chassidim were dancing enthusiastically and we really enjoyed the music. We enjoyed all the different bands and chassidic groups and I couldn't say which Tish or celebration was the best. They were all great.

The Mishkenot HaRoim







When we walked over to Chassidut Stropkov, only a few meters further, we saw a Chassid laying on the sidewalk. Obviously drunk but as our second friends is a doctor, she was worried. However, other Chassidim assured her that the drunk was fine but only drunk.

The Stropkov Synagogue is small and the Ezrat Nashim looks rather like a little living room. Of course, it was full and my friend didn't succeed too much in taking a picture through the Mechitzah. I saw very little but again, music was great.

The view through the Stropkov Mechitzah.





Next destination: Karlin - Stolin.
They had especially set up a tent. Everyone could have a look inside and my friend made some photos.

The Karlin - Stolin Chassidim in Jerusalem (on Purim Shushan)





We wanted to go to Satmar (the Beit Midrash of Rebbe Zalman Leib Teitelbaum), Kretchnif and Dushinsky. Instead we decided to go to Sadigora, Kaliv and Chernobyl. Unfortunately, the last three three didn't have anything going on and we ended our trip. I was completely finished and couldn't move my knees anymore. It was a tremendous experience and I am still a little off from all of that.

Anything we wanted

B"H

Jerusalem was celebrating Purim Shushan today. The weather was great but far too hot: 33 degrees Celsius (90 Fahrenheit).

Thousands were in the streets celebrating. Rabbi Mordechai Machlis organized his traditional Purim party in the late afternoon. It was wild but nice.

Afterwards I took two friends to Mea Shearim. One of them mostly accompanies me to the Tishes on Shabbat and the other one simply wanted to see what we are talking about all the time.

We had an incredible time and tomorrow, I am going to write about our visits in detail. The Tishes we went to were: Toldot Aharon, Toldot Avraham Yitzchak, the Neturei Karta, the Mishkenot HaRoim, Chassidut Stropkov and Karlin - Stolin.

We finally succeeded in getting into the Mishkenot HaRoim Synagogue and saw great dancing taking place. We even made some pictures.
The Mishkenot HaRoim are a kind of secret group (organization) in Mea Shearim. Their head is Rabbi Chaim Rabinovicz and they are members of the anti - Zionist umbrella organization "Edah HaCharedit".

We had an unbelievable time and it was great seeing all those chassidic places. The Mea Shearim Synagogues were open tonight and the Chassidim were very welcoming.

Within the next coming days, I am going to put some more pictures into the blog.