Monday, January 12, 2009
"Neve Zedek" & "Florentin" in Tel Aviv
In Florentin
B"H
At the moment, all the reports about the ongoing war in Gaza are becoming a little too much. Is seems like Israel only consists of war and terror. However, besides some politics and especially religion, I want to show the beauty of our country.
There are actually many positive sides and throughout all my years of living here (I think almost 14 years), I got to know the country and its inhabitants from a very different point of view.
So, why not also show how we live in Israel ?
In one of my German blogs I have already started describing some neighbourhoods in Jerusalem and Tel Aviv. In English, I am starting today with the famous and popular Tel Aviv neighbourhoods "Neve Zedek" and "Florentin".
Both neighbourhoods are easy to find, as their location is very central (near Allenby Street in downtown Tel Aviv).
What does a not necessarily haredi Israeli love to do on Shabbat ? Especially when the weather is nice ?
Right, he likes to go on hiking trips. Walking and getting to know the own environment much better. Discover unknown places and simply have fun and enjoy nature. I am myself a nature freak and don't like sitting too much inside on the Shabbatot.
Last Shabbat, I joined the hiking society and started walking downtown. Weather was great with almost 20 degrees Celsius and the sky was completely blue. So far about the romantic part.
I walked through Rothschild Boulevard (Sderot Rothschild), a street with a long history. Once the high society part of the city, in the 70ies and 80ies, Rothschild got neglected. However, suddenly in the 90ies until now, the street has been experiencing a revival by becoming the old / new Yuppie center.
If you walk through Rothschild, you automatically find your way to Allenby Street. If you cross, you get to the "Shalom Tower". For many years, the tower was THE symbol of modern Tel Aviv, as it used to be the highest building in the entire country. Now, Tel Aviv is full of much higher and more modern towers than the old "Shalom - Tower". Countless offices and shops are located in the tower as well as the Ministry of the Interior of Tel Aviv. In case you need to renew your visa, go to the Shalom - Tower.
Neve Zedek
Right behind it, towards the beach, you can find the "Ahad Ha'am Street" or Lilienblum. The "Shalom -Tower" and all the other new skyscrapers around represent a modern Hightech Tel Aviv. However, if you walk down Ahad Ha'am or Lilienblum, you get to the village - like neighbourhood "Neve Zedek".
Neve Zedek is the first Tel Aviv settlement; the first old "Yishuv" and thus, the first houses built. You are in the middle of a city and suddenly you are standing in the middle of a romantic small village. Away from the city life, you find a cozy atmosphere. The clocks are "moving slowly" and there is no hectic at all. A different world in the middle of the world surrounded by skyscrapers with banks and insurance companies.
Idyllic but surrounded by modern buildings
"Neve Zedek" offers a lot to its visitors. Cafes and shops, parts of them open on Shabbat. Lots of green and stylish housing.
If you turn left into Celouche and cross the small bridge, you get back into the "real life". Back in a dirty road full of garages and hardware stores. This is Abarbanel Street until you reach Florentin Street.
And here we are in the second "IN" - neighbourhood called "Florentin". Normal and crazy people, artists and those who see it as an art to remain alive. More Hippie style but anything but conservative or Yuppie.
Whoever feels like keep on walking can continue for another few minutes until he reaches the antique town of Yaffo with its port. Others, like me, can crawl back into downtown Tel Aviv. Tired and finished from all the walking. Have a nice walk back at the beach.
Florentin
Behind the old "Dolphinarium" (towards Yaffo), you can find a new promenade with a great view onto the Mediteranean. Today, the "Dolphinarium" is just a ruine with a huge parking lot in front of it. Abandoned and neglected.
Every time I pass there, I am being reminded of the terror attack taking place on 1st June 2001. More than twenty Russian teens died on the spot when a suicide bomber blew himself up while the kids were waiting for the entrance into the former disco "Dolphinarium". One day, the entire complex will just be demolished and, if you ask me, it won't take too long anymore.
Those of you visiting Tel Aviv shouldn't only go to the Carmel - Market or to the beach, as the city has much more to offer.
Florentin
Artistic walls in Neve Zedek
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Great Stuff! I am looking forward to a visit to Tel Aviv so I can walk down those streets.
ReplyDeleteB"H
ReplyDeleteThanks.
My next reports will be about the famous IN - street Ibn Gvirol, about freaky Shenkin and back to Yuppie Rothschild.