Friday, May 23, 2008

Jerusalem is burning


Mystical bonfires in Meron

B"H

Until Erev Shabbat (tonight) we still celebrate Lag Ba'Omer. However, all the main mystical celebrations took already place last night (Thursday).

Bonfires are the great mystical tradition on Lag Ba'Omer. The day is the Yahrzeit (anniversary of someone's death) of Rabbi Shimon Bar Yochai and it is the day when the plague among the students of Rabbi Akiva stopped.

Most Haredim from Bnei Brak went to Meron in northern Israel, to the grave of Rabbi Shimon Bar Yochai. It is said that 400,000 people went to Meron this week. I didn't even try because what can you see when there are such crowds ? And the women ? They are somewhere in the back anyway. Saying Tehillim (Psalms) and that's it. Instead, I went to Jerusalem and my destination was Mea Shearim. As usual, I went with a friend and we made lots of photos which I am going to put into the blog next week.


Crowds in Meron on Lag Ba'Omer

First I read the Fakshivilim (news posters) on the walls of Mea Shearim. The anti – Zionist umbrella organization "Edah HaCharedit" had placed another ban on the state – owned Egged busses. Reason: Egged works on Shabbat.
Altogether, 5700 special Egged busses went to Meron.
Who took those busses when the Edah placed a ban on them ? I have no idea but, nevertheless, there are always enough customers around.

Last night, Jerusalem was burning everywhere. The bonfires are very popular and the religious have been collecting wood for the whole week. The local soccer club "Beitar Yerushalaim" had a huge pop concert in Sacher Park. Beitar owner, the controversial Russian Israel Billionaire Arcadi Gaydamak, had sponsored the event and thousands of Beitar fans showed up. The music could be heard until the Machane Yehudah Market.

In Mea Shearim is was quiet.
Our first destination was "Kikar Supnik" in Strauss Street where the anti – Zionist chassidic group Dushinsky has its boy's school. They had lit a bonfire right in front of the school but the music was so bad. Their singer wasn't really tuned and it was anything but a pleasure listening to him. They should have thrown in a CD or played something better. However, the Chassidim were dancing and the women were standing further in the back. It was nice but the music wasn't.

Second destination:
Yoel Street in Mea Shearim and not too far away from Supnik.
The Satmarer Chassidim had their bonfire but at that time, at about 10.30 pm, there wasn't too much of it left. Not many Chassidim were there, as everyone seemed to be in Meron. It was full of women and children. The Satmarer Beit Midrash in Yoel Street belongs to the followers of Rebbe Zalman Leib Teitelbaum.

Only a few meters further away was the next bonfire and great chassidic music could be heard. And where there is great music, there is Karlin – Stolin. The Karliner had a great atmosphere and a nice bonfire. Their Chassidim were dancing enthusiastically and some Breslovers and national religious joined. It was the best atmosphere in Mea Shearim. Only 15m further away, the next bonfire was lit by litvishe Haredim. The fire went wild and all of us thought that the whole thing might explode. People escaped from the rising flames but everything went okay.

The Toldot Aharon Rebbe had taken his Chassidim to Meron and is just coming back today. So, there will be a chassidic Tish at Toldot Aharon's tonight. I think that their women were glad that the men were gone. At least it gave them a little break. Laundry was hanging outside and normally hanging out laundry on Lag ba'Omer is a disaster. But it was quiet in the Toldot Aharon backyard and the laundry was not in a smoky danger.

At midnight, the Mea Shearim market was extremely quiet. People were in the streets but no more bonfires. Nevertheless, we found one still burning. On the rooftop of the "Torah ve'Yirah" – Synagogue of the Neturei Karta.

Besides:
We saw a Neturei Karta Chassid cutting the hair of a little boy.
Cutting the hair for the first time of three year old boys is a mystical tradition on Lag Ba'Omer.

And:
A litvishe guy invited us into the local Synagogue in the Mea Shearim market. We had already spied through the windows and saw one of the most beautiful synagogues. Eastern European style, with drawings on the ceiling and chandeliers. It was great. After his invitation we entered the Ezrat Nashim (women's section) but were disappointed. A curtain as Mechitzah hindered us from having a great view into the beautiful men's section. The Ezrat Nashim was kept rather plain. But we will be back for a Synagogue service.

All in all, I enjoyed myself very much and I wish everyone a happy Lag Ba'Omer.

Shabbat Shalom

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